WHO IS GURUFOXX?
Foxx has been making models for over forty years and has now decided to create this site and the YouTube channel to spread his knowledge to those who want to learn the mysterious dark arts of making cool stuff. He also sells his builds so that those who do not feel they have the skill or ability to create their own can still have a beautiful, hand-crafted piece on display in their den, office or living room without paying museum prices. Also he is running out of space to display stuff.
Growing up on Tamiya Military Miniatures kits and a love of sci-fi, naturally his preferences lean toward those genres. He's never happier than when he is building a Gunpla, recreating a filming miniature from Star Wars* or similar, or painting up a kick-ass Warhammer mini.
But the one thing he loves more than anything else is WEATHERING! You won't see a shiny, factory fresh kit on his workbench. He is a firm believer that a display model looks much more realistic and lived in if it has a story to tell through its scuffs, scrapes, scratches, dents and dings. Rust, mud, dirt, stains and general schmutz are vital to making a miniature "pop".
Now Foxx devotes his time to sharing that passion (AND his love of videogames) with others through his YouTube channel, gurufoxx. With a firm belief that anyone has the skill to do what he does, the majority of his videos focus on teaching the techniques he uses, demonstrating and explaining as he goes along.
To enable Foxx to continue to tech and inspire with varied video content full-time (and to show how AWESOME you are) please consider becoming a Patron or Member so that you can support the keep the lights on and food on the table. Please visit the gurufoxx Patreon page to sign up or, alternatively become a YouTube channel member right here. Thank you for your kind support. Members & Patrons get early ad-free access to much of the channel's video content.
Feel free to browse the site, see what is available for sale. Wander through the galleries to check out completed builds and hang around the YouTube page to stay up to date on all the latest video content. And hopefully you'll be inspired to start your own build!
Growing up on Tamiya Military Miniatures kits and a love of sci-fi, naturally his preferences lean toward those genres. He's never happier than when he is building a Gunpla, recreating a filming miniature from Star Wars* or similar, or painting up a kick-ass Warhammer mini.
But the one thing he loves more than anything else is WEATHERING! You won't see a shiny, factory fresh kit on his workbench. He is a firm believer that a display model looks much more realistic and lived in if it has a story to tell through its scuffs, scrapes, scratches, dents and dings. Rust, mud, dirt, stains and general schmutz are vital to making a miniature "pop".
Now Foxx devotes his time to sharing that passion (AND his love of videogames) with others through his YouTube channel, gurufoxx. With a firm belief that anyone has the skill to do what he does, the majority of his videos focus on teaching the techniques he uses, demonstrating and explaining as he goes along.
To enable Foxx to continue to tech and inspire with varied video content full-time (and to show how AWESOME you are) please consider becoming a Patron or Member so that you can support the keep the lights on and food on the table. Please visit the gurufoxx Patreon page to sign up or, alternatively become a YouTube channel member right here. Thank you for your kind support. Members & Patrons get early ad-free access to much of the channel's video content.
Feel free to browse the site, see what is available for sale. Wander through the galleries to check out completed builds and hang around the YouTube page to stay up to date on all the latest video content. And hopefully you'll be inspired to start your own build!
CONTACT FOXX & FAQ
Below is a huge list of questions that I get asked all the time, and it is being added to all the time. If you have a question and want to know more about something, check out the list below. If you don't find your answer you are welcome to contact me to ask the question, or even just to tell me I rock, or pretty much anything else.
UPDATE NOV 2020: I HAVE REMOVED THE CONTACT FORM DUE TO CONSTANT SPAM. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT ME PLEASE MAIL foxx (at) modelmakinguru.com OR send me a message through the Facebook gurufoxx page
Please make sure to read the FAQ first as your question may be answered already. I get a lot of emails and hate having to send replies that just include a link to this FAQ, but I have to otherwise I would spend all day doing emails.
If you would like to send me pictures of your own models, then instead of sending them to just me, why not join and post them up in the Modelmaker's Boomhut - the best online modelmaking community there is!
UPDATE NOV 2020: I HAVE REMOVED THE CONTACT FORM DUE TO CONSTANT SPAM. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO CONTACT ME PLEASE MAIL foxx (at) modelmakinguru.com OR send me a message through the Facebook gurufoxx page
Please make sure to read the FAQ first as your question may be answered already. I get a lot of emails and hate having to send replies that just include a link to this FAQ, but I have to otherwise I would spend all day doing emails.
If you would like to send me pictures of your own models, then instead of sending them to just me, why not join and post them up in the Modelmaker's Boomhut - the best online modelmaking community there is!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How can I support you?
It's nice to support the creators you love so they can keep doing what they do, and your support would be brilliant and much appreciated, thank you! I make my living running this site, creating content for my YouTube channel and selling my builds. If you would like to help keep the lights on and keep me doing this all day, every day, then you can do in a few ways:
It's nice to support the creators you love so they can keep doing what they do, and your support would be brilliant and much appreciated, thank you! I make my living running this site, creating content for my YouTube channel and selling my builds. If you would like to help keep the lights on and keep me doing this all day, every day, then you can do in a few ways:
- Consider becoming a Patron and supporting me directly each month: Support me on Patreon
- Or, consider becoming a YouTube channel Member. Patrons and Channel Members get ad-free early access to content a week in advance!
- If you don't wish to give me money directly, then give your hard-earned to my sponsors instead: eModels.co.uk for your traditional; model-making supplies and Games Workshop goodness. You will be supporting them, and they in turn support me.
- Make sure not to skip any adverts on my YouTube videos, watching them really helps me out. Also like and subscribe, and watch everything!
- Pick up some official merchandise!
- Followers in the UK, Canada and USA can pick up model-making tools and supplies through the Supply Hub UK, Supply Hub Canada and the Supply Hub USA - my Amazon Affiliate stores that give me a little scratch on every item you pick up, at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Where do you get all your kit and models?
My go-to modelling supplier is eModels.co.uk - your one-stop-shop for all your modelmaking needs, with most prices at 10% off RRP. They also sponsor my channel.
My go-to modelling supplier is eModels.co.uk - your one-stop-shop for all your modelmaking needs, with most prices at 10% off RRP. They also sponsor my channel.
Commissions - will you build me a xxxx?
Short answer: no. Long answer: nooooooooooo.
At this time I am no longer accepting commission requests. I suffer from a very fickle sense of motivation and there is nothing worse than losing the will to carry on half way through a build. I have a collection of half-finished kits that can attest to that. With a commission build I have no choice BUT to finish it, and reluctance is not a good state of mind to be in when someone is paying. Making models is my fun refuge from the rigours of daily life, and when you are making something you have no desire to complete, it is no longer fun.
Can I buy your finished pieces?
Why yes, yes you can! I sell most of my finished builds primarily because I only have so much space available to display models.
I will offer completed builds for sale through eBay, or occasionally, directly through this website. These will be listed on the For Sale page of this website. This will be time-limited and once a model is sold it is unlikely I will make another one of that subject, so grab what you can whilst it is available.
Once an item is listed on eBay I will not enter into any discussions about the sale, offers or auction outside of eBay. This is for your security and in line with eBay terms and conditions. However, if you see a model that is not listed for sale and are interested in purchasing it, simply get in touch via the contact form above or send me a message on my Facebook page and we can discuss if I am willing to sell the model.
Models sold directly through this website will be documented thoroughly via email conversation only to keep a permanent record, and in most cases payment will only be accepted by bank transfer.
There is more information about buying my work further down the FAQ, so keep reading!
Do you make any kind of models?
For myself I only make kits that interest me visually or thematically. As a kid growing up in 1970′s Britain, WWII was a prevalent theme in comics and movies so I have an interest in that genre, and my first experience of modelling was Military Miniature kits from Tamiya, which were predominantly WWII. And as I love sci-fi I tend to gravitate to things from shows and movies I like or things that I think just looked cool. I don’t tend to make airplanes, ships or figures as I don’t enjoy making them for myself. I like to build something that I can weather the living daylights out of, so there won’t be any nice, shiny clean things in my display cases!
Where did you learn how to make models?
In the cradle of childhood. I have been making models since I was a child, and for many years I just taught myself or read books explaining how things are done. Once the internet appeared, I used that to glean anything I didn’t already know.
Why do some of your kits have no clear plastic in the windows?
If I am making a model of a filming miniature, such as a Star Wars vehicle, then I will not include clear plastic parts as the filming miniatures did not always include them either. Clear plastic reflects studio lights and leads to unrealistic scale-killing reflections, so studio model makers made their vehicles with canopy frames, but no actual canopies. My Star Wars builds have no clear windows, but the Colonial Viper does (as the filming miniature was actually CGI and so had a CGI canopy).
What are these number on your articles, like 1/35, 1/72?
These are the scales of the model I am making – so a 1/35 (one thirty-fifth) kit is 1/35th the size of the original. Common scales are 1/35 and 1/48 for military kits, 1/72, 1/32 and 1/48 for aircraft, 1/24 for non-military vehicles and 1/6 and 1/16 for single figure models (although there are many more). Many resin kits of big starships are in scales such as 1/1400, 1/1200 and so on. The smaller the second number, the bigger the finished piece. For example, a 1/350 scale U-boat will fit nicely in your hand, whereas my 1/72 U-96 kit is three feet long.
You can learn all about model scales in this hand-dandy explainer:
What sort of paints do you recommend?
It’s a very personal choice. I personally do not like enamel paints for painting base colours as they stink, take a long time to dry, require turps or similar as thinners, and are not brilliant for spraying. I prefer acrylic paints such as Tamiya or Vallejo. These do not smell as bad, dry quickly and are great for brush and airbrush work. They also tend to give a much smoother finish when applied by brush, compared to enamels. HOWEVER, for brush painting, the absolute best are Citadel water-based acrylics from Games Workshop. I also use 502 Abteilung oil paints for applying dry-brush weathering, some washes and panel discolouration and colour variation. Oil paints take longer to dry fully, but this is not a problem if you are not using oils for painting base coats, and is also a boon because it allows you to mix colours whilst they are on the model. They can also be thinned using odourless turpenoids which are cheap and don’t smell. I tend to use acrylics for painting base coats, and oils for picking out details and weathering. Oils are also very good for painting figures, as the mixabiltiy allows for complex shading on skin or clothing. You can also use pastels for weathering, but I find oils give a smoother and less grainy finish. However, it is important to remember that oil and water don’t mix – so make sure that you are spraying a varnish on top of acrylics and letting it fully dry before putting oils on top of acrylics, and handle the piece carefully whilst oil paints are still drying. It should be noted however that enamel paints do come in very handy for weathering, especially with such products as the Ammo of Mig range, which are predominantly enamel based. They are also useful for the reverse-wash technique.
I want to get into airbrushing, what's a good starter setup?
I can't recommend airbrushing strongly enough. Your paint finishes will be infinitely better when you dump painting with a brush. Leave brushes for detail painting and weathering.
Airbrushing can seem like a mysterious dark art to the uninitiated but it is really quite straightforward. There are a million different brushes and compressors out there, and it can be hard to know where to start. My advice: start cheap. You will either take to airbrushing or you won't, and you don;t want to spend upwards of £250 on a top-end brush and compressor to then find that you hate it. Start off with a good, straightforward beginner brush such as the cheaper Iwata or Badger brushes ( I use the Neo for Iwata which is only about £50 and I love it to bits) and basic compressor. Get your practice in, get comfortable, and when you are ready then you can move up to the more professional equipment.
To have the easiest introduction to airbrushing, I recommend the following guidelines: get an airbrush that is gravity fed (cup on the top) and double-action (push the trigger down for air, pull it back for paint). Avoid siphon-feed, side-feed and single-action brushes, they are just not worth the hassle.
You can use compressed air cans for your air supply when you start out of you wish, but bear in mind they are not a cheap option in the long-term and, as the can empties out the pressure going through the brush decreases. A compressor is a better option and cheaper in the long-term. Ideally you want something that is quiet if you are painting at home, so don't go down to your local hardware store and grab some 20-litre power tool compressor. Iwata do a very good range of compressors. You will be working typically between 15-30psi for most modelmaking so some big industrial thing is just overkill. If you can, try to get something either with an air reservoir tank or that is listed as "on-demand" - either of these means that the engine is not constantly running, only when it needs to refill the tank or, with on-demand compressors, when you press the trigger down. Also ideal but not totally necessary is some sort of pressure control so you can vary the psi. Lastly, if you can get one with an on-board moisture trap that will save you many bad paint jobs (although you can instead buy a separate in-line moisture trap that attaches to your airbrush and does the same job).
If you are in the UK, get in touch with eModels.co.uk, tell them I sent you, and ask them what your options are for a starter airbrush set.
I want to paint my Gunpla (or any Bandai kit) - do I need to use primer?
Absolutely. Bandai plastics can be very susceptible to damage and breaking from thinners used with pretty much any kind of paint. If any thinners or thinned paint washes get on to bare plastic at a joint or where there is high stress - especially on ABS plastic parts - then they may cause the part to crack, break or shatter. To reduce the risk, ALWAYS prime every single part, inside and out, even on inside parts you will never see again. The primer acts as a barrier to anything you put on top of it. It also helps the paint adhere better, making it less likely to chip off when you move joints.
Do I need to do anything different from normal plastic models when painting Gunpla (or any Bandai kit)?
Yes. As mentioned above, the plastics are easily damaged by thinners. Any thinners - oil, enamel, lacquer, acrylic. Aside from priming the living crap out of everything except clear parts, you may wish to abandon some techniques that are commonly used on other traditional plastic model kits. I have found it best to avoid using washes of thinned paints as these are mostly thinner with a little paint mixed in. It won't take much for the wash to find and exploit a little bit of exposed plastic. You can still do pin-washes - where you care carefully placing paint into a panel line for example - but you have to be very careful. I often use Ammo of Mig's panel line washes and weathering products, most of which are simply thinned enamels, but I am very careful not to slop stuff around and I try to avoid panel gaps, areas where parts separate or joints. If you want to be absolutely sure you are not putting the plastic at risk, you can try using inks and water and clay-based weathering washes such as those from Ultimate Modelling Products, which will do no harm.
I don't understand about varnishes/topcoats, when do I use them, and do I use gloss or matte?
Varnishes, also known as topcoats, finishes, clearcoats or a hundred other names, are used for three reasons. Firstly as a practical method to protect decals and protect paint from the weathering process. Secondly, they are what gives your model its final finish - gloss, matte, or semi-gloss. Varnishes can be applied by airbrush or by rattle-can. If your model has no shiny parts and no clear parts and you want it to be not shiny, then a matte varnish once it is finished will do just the job. If you want a model to be a shiny shiny thing, then use a gloss coat. For things that need to be a little shiny but not like a showroom car, then a semi-gloss or satin finish can be good. Lastly, they protect the paint job on your model from wear and tear when it is being handled (although ideally you should keep handling of your models to an absolute minimum).
Some confusion can arise when you see me making a model that is not meant to be shiny at all, but I use gloss varnishes during the painting and weathering and then finish it off with a matte coat at the end. You use gloss varnishes during these processes as a protective layer and to give a smooth surface. a Matte varnish is (microscopically) a rough surface which is why it looks matte - it diffuses light. A gloss varnish, on the other hand, is a smooth surface that reflects more light without diffusing it, which is why it looks shiny. You can use this to your advantage. You should ideally apply a gloss coat to a model just before you apply any waterslide decals. This will give the decals a smooth surface to adhere to, and will help them suck flat to the model, reducing silvering and helping them conform to uneven surfaces. Once they are dried, you apply another gloss coat, this time to protect the decals and seal them in place. This second gloss coat also gives a smooth surface so that the first step in weathering - panel line pin-washes - that follows after decalling can flow smoothly over the surface and move around the panel recesses. Then you carry on with your weathering and once all that is done, you can go ahead and apply your final varnish layer to seal everything in and to give the final finish you need (so, if the model should not be shiny, this last step is where you apply the matte varnish to dull everything down). If you are weathering with enamel products, such as the Ammo range, then you may not actually need to apply this final matte varnish, as the enamel weathering products result in a nice, matte finish anyway (assuming you will not be handling the model in the future). You can also use the different varnishes to different effects as you go through the weathering. If you are applying a gunk wash, then gunking over a gloss surface will leave paint in the recesses but allow the open flat areas to stay clean. If you gunk wash over a matte varnish, the rougher surface means that the paint will still remain in the recesses but also remain more on the flat areas, giving the model a different tint. Experiment and have fun.
Just remember, if you are applying a matte varnish you must mask off any clear parts - these will frost up if they are covered with matte varnish.
What is Pledge Multi-Surface Wax / Pledge Floor Care Finish 2X More Shine / Pledge Revive It, where do I get it?
Pledge Multi-Surface Wax, later re-named to Pledge Floor Care Finish (2 x More Shine) and, as of 2018, re-named AGAIN to Pledge Revive It, is what I use as a gloss coat. It is intended as a shiny protective layer for wooden flooring and ceramic tiles, but in reality it is basically just a shiny acrylic varnish, and is perfect for modelmaking. It has incredible self-levelling properties meaning that it can be airbrushed or brushed onto your model and will dry smooth, flat and free of brush-marks. It also is not known to yellow over time with exposure to UV (where a model does yellow over time, it is more likely to be the paint underneath that has yellowed, or the varnish used was not an acrylic varnish). Also known as Future or Klear, it has been a staple gloss product for modelmakers for a very long time.
I use Pledge instead of gloss clear varnishes made by model paint manufacturers like Vallejo, Tamiya, Alclad and others for two very simple reasons: price and simplicity. A small 100ml bottle of modelmaking varnish may cost upwards of £10, whereas a huge 750ml bottle of Pledge will cost you about £6.50 from Sainsbury's or most supermarkets and last you YEARS. It is also stupidly simple to use. Either brush it straight on, or airbrush it straight from the bottle with no diluting or thinning required.
Over the years I have tried many different gloss coats, all of which have either proven fiddly, finnicky or just downright crap (I'm looking at you, Humbrol Clear). Pledge has never given me a problem, and just goes on.
It changes name all the time, so the only way to know what you have for sure is to look at the label. If it shows the SC Johnson Formula Number as #35*3597 you are good to go.
You can also use it on clear parts to create a more glass-like effect. It goes by a multitude of different names and labels, and seems to change regularly, so to find out what it is called in your country and what it looks like at the moment, go along to this handy-dandy guide to Future over at Swanny's Models and bookmark the page.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you airbrush Pledge, you MUST wear a suitable respirator mask. It contains many nasty chemicals. There is an old story that many years ago a modelmaker approached Johnson's and told them that modellers were a prime market for the product as a gloss varnish. They were surprised as they had no idea it was popular in this area. Discussions were apparently had about the possibility of bringing Pledge/Future/Klear to market as a separate modelmaking-specific product - until Johnson's realised that modellers were airbrushing it - at which point the idea was shelved as they could foresee lawsuits piling up at the door. True story, brah.
What is "gunk washing"?
Gunk Washing is a term I coined (because I can't recall what it is actually called) for a technique that will be very familiar to anyone that makes models, props and set pieces for the film and TV industry. Quite simply, you take a model or model piece, totally cover it in neat, unthinned oil paint, and then gently rub the oil paint right back off again with a soft, lint-free cloth or towel (most modellers use an old t-shirt) leaving behind paint in the recesses, nooks and crannies. It creates a nice, subtle shadowing effect and also gives a very quick alternative method to painting panel lines and recessed detail. Often you will also tint the piece slightly, so it is a very handy way to add panel lines, shadows and a little bit of a patina all in one go and really make a model pop.
I find Mig's Starship Filth oil paint is a perfect gunk wash colour for most projects, but any colour will do.
A gunk wash needs to be oil paint because of the long drying time. You can't do it with enamels or standard modelling acrylic paints (water or alcohol based) as they dry too quickly and you will just get a mess. Some water-based acrylic paints can be used if you are quick, but you wold need to experiment to find the best ones. If in doubt, stick to oils.
Once a piece has been "gunked" with oils it should be protected and sealed in with a varnish to stop any further weathering re-activating the thick paint, and it it must be left alone for at least five days for the paints to dry properly before this protective varnish layer goes over the top. Wearing gloves during the gunking process is a must - otherwise you will get fingerprints all over the model, and you will get covered in oil paint!
It’s a very personal choice. I personally do not like enamel paints for painting base colours as they stink, take a long time to dry, require turps or similar as thinners, and are not brilliant for spraying. I prefer acrylic paints such as Tamiya or Vallejo. These do not smell as bad, dry quickly and are great for brush and airbrush work. They also tend to give a much smoother finish when applied by brush, compared to enamels. HOWEVER, for brush painting, the absolute best are Citadel water-based acrylics from Games Workshop. I also use 502 Abteilung oil paints for applying dry-brush weathering, some washes and panel discolouration and colour variation. Oil paints take longer to dry fully, but this is not a problem if you are not using oils for painting base coats, and is also a boon because it allows you to mix colours whilst they are on the model. They can also be thinned using odourless turpenoids which are cheap and don’t smell. I tend to use acrylics for painting base coats, and oils for picking out details and weathering. Oils are also very good for painting figures, as the mixabiltiy allows for complex shading on skin or clothing. You can also use pastels for weathering, but I find oils give a smoother and less grainy finish. However, it is important to remember that oil and water don’t mix – so make sure that you are spraying a varnish on top of acrylics and letting it fully dry before putting oils on top of acrylics, and handle the piece carefully whilst oil paints are still drying. It should be noted however that enamel paints do come in very handy for weathering, especially with such products as the Ammo of Mig range, which are predominantly enamel based. They are also useful for the reverse-wash technique.
I want to get into airbrushing, what's a good starter setup?
I can't recommend airbrushing strongly enough. Your paint finishes will be infinitely better when you dump painting with a brush. Leave brushes for detail painting and weathering.
Airbrushing can seem like a mysterious dark art to the uninitiated but it is really quite straightforward. There are a million different brushes and compressors out there, and it can be hard to know where to start. My advice: start cheap. You will either take to airbrushing or you won't, and you don;t want to spend upwards of £250 on a top-end brush and compressor to then find that you hate it. Start off with a good, straightforward beginner brush such as the cheaper Iwata or Badger brushes ( I use the Neo for Iwata which is only about £50 and I love it to bits) and basic compressor. Get your practice in, get comfortable, and when you are ready then you can move up to the more professional equipment.
To have the easiest introduction to airbrushing, I recommend the following guidelines: get an airbrush that is gravity fed (cup on the top) and double-action (push the trigger down for air, pull it back for paint). Avoid siphon-feed, side-feed and single-action brushes, they are just not worth the hassle.
You can use compressed air cans for your air supply when you start out of you wish, but bear in mind they are not a cheap option in the long-term and, as the can empties out the pressure going through the brush decreases. A compressor is a better option and cheaper in the long-term. Ideally you want something that is quiet if you are painting at home, so don't go down to your local hardware store and grab some 20-litre power tool compressor. Iwata do a very good range of compressors. You will be working typically between 15-30psi for most modelmaking so some big industrial thing is just overkill. If you can, try to get something either with an air reservoir tank or that is listed as "on-demand" - either of these means that the engine is not constantly running, only when it needs to refill the tank or, with on-demand compressors, when you press the trigger down. Also ideal but not totally necessary is some sort of pressure control so you can vary the psi. Lastly, if you can get one with an on-board moisture trap that will save you many bad paint jobs (although you can instead buy a separate in-line moisture trap that attaches to your airbrush and does the same job).
If you are in the UK, get in touch with eModels.co.uk, tell them I sent you, and ask them what your options are for a starter airbrush set.
I want to paint my Gunpla (or any Bandai kit) - do I need to use primer?
Absolutely. Bandai plastics can be very susceptible to damage and breaking from thinners used with pretty much any kind of paint. If any thinners or thinned paint washes get on to bare plastic at a joint or where there is high stress - especially on ABS plastic parts - then they may cause the part to crack, break or shatter. To reduce the risk, ALWAYS prime every single part, inside and out, even on inside parts you will never see again. The primer acts as a barrier to anything you put on top of it. It also helps the paint adhere better, making it less likely to chip off when you move joints.
Do I need to do anything different from normal plastic models when painting Gunpla (or any Bandai kit)?
Yes. As mentioned above, the plastics are easily damaged by thinners. Any thinners - oil, enamel, lacquer, acrylic. Aside from priming the living crap out of everything except clear parts, you may wish to abandon some techniques that are commonly used on other traditional plastic model kits. I have found it best to avoid using washes of thinned paints as these are mostly thinner with a little paint mixed in. It won't take much for the wash to find and exploit a little bit of exposed plastic. You can still do pin-washes - where you care carefully placing paint into a panel line for example - but you have to be very careful. I often use Ammo of Mig's panel line washes and weathering products, most of which are simply thinned enamels, but I am very careful not to slop stuff around and I try to avoid panel gaps, areas where parts separate or joints. If you want to be absolutely sure you are not putting the plastic at risk, you can try using inks and water and clay-based weathering washes such as those from Ultimate Modelling Products, which will do no harm.
I don't understand about varnishes/topcoats, when do I use them, and do I use gloss or matte?
Varnishes, also known as topcoats, finishes, clearcoats or a hundred other names, are used for three reasons. Firstly as a practical method to protect decals and protect paint from the weathering process. Secondly, they are what gives your model its final finish - gloss, matte, or semi-gloss. Varnishes can be applied by airbrush or by rattle-can. If your model has no shiny parts and no clear parts and you want it to be not shiny, then a matte varnish once it is finished will do just the job. If you want a model to be a shiny shiny thing, then use a gloss coat. For things that need to be a little shiny but not like a showroom car, then a semi-gloss or satin finish can be good. Lastly, they protect the paint job on your model from wear and tear when it is being handled (although ideally you should keep handling of your models to an absolute minimum).
Some confusion can arise when you see me making a model that is not meant to be shiny at all, but I use gloss varnishes during the painting and weathering and then finish it off with a matte coat at the end. You use gloss varnishes during these processes as a protective layer and to give a smooth surface. a Matte varnish is (microscopically) a rough surface which is why it looks matte - it diffuses light. A gloss varnish, on the other hand, is a smooth surface that reflects more light without diffusing it, which is why it looks shiny. You can use this to your advantage. You should ideally apply a gloss coat to a model just before you apply any waterslide decals. This will give the decals a smooth surface to adhere to, and will help them suck flat to the model, reducing silvering and helping them conform to uneven surfaces. Once they are dried, you apply another gloss coat, this time to protect the decals and seal them in place. This second gloss coat also gives a smooth surface so that the first step in weathering - panel line pin-washes - that follows after decalling can flow smoothly over the surface and move around the panel recesses. Then you carry on with your weathering and once all that is done, you can go ahead and apply your final varnish layer to seal everything in and to give the final finish you need (so, if the model should not be shiny, this last step is where you apply the matte varnish to dull everything down). If you are weathering with enamel products, such as the Ammo range, then you may not actually need to apply this final matte varnish, as the enamel weathering products result in a nice, matte finish anyway (assuming you will not be handling the model in the future). You can also use the different varnishes to different effects as you go through the weathering. If you are applying a gunk wash, then gunking over a gloss surface will leave paint in the recesses but allow the open flat areas to stay clean. If you gunk wash over a matte varnish, the rougher surface means that the paint will still remain in the recesses but also remain more on the flat areas, giving the model a different tint. Experiment and have fun.
Just remember, if you are applying a matte varnish you must mask off any clear parts - these will frost up if they are covered with matte varnish.
What is Pledge Multi-Surface Wax / Pledge Floor Care Finish 2X More Shine / Pledge Revive It, where do I get it?
Pledge Multi-Surface Wax, later re-named to Pledge Floor Care Finish (2 x More Shine) and, as of 2018, re-named AGAIN to Pledge Revive It, is what I use as a gloss coat. It is intended as a shiny protective layer for wooden flooring and ceramic tiles, but in reality it is basically just a shiny acrylic varnish, and is perfect for modelmaking. It has incredible self-levelling properties meaning that it can be airbrushed or brushed onto your model and will dry smooth, flat and free of brush-marks. It also is not known to yellow over time with exposure to UV (where a model does yellow over time, it is more likely to be the paint underneath that has yellowed, or the varnish used was not an acrylic varnish). Also known as Future or Klear, it has been a staple gloss product for modelmakers for a very long time.
I use Pledge instead of gloss clear varnishes made by model paint manufacturers like Vallejo, Tamiya, Alclad and others for two very simple reasons: price and simplicity. A small 100ml bottle of modelmaking varnish may cost upwards of £10, whereas a huge 750ml bottle of Pledge will cost you about £6.50 from Sainsbury's or most supermarkets and last you YEARS. It is also stupidly simple to use. Either brush it straight on, or airbrush it straight from the bottle with no diluting or thinning required.
Over the years I have tried many different gloss coats, all of which have either proven fiddly, finnicky or just downright crap (I'm looking at you, Humbrol Clear). Pledge has never given me a problem, and just goes on.
It changes name all the time, so the only way to know what you have for sure is to look at the label. If it shows the SC Johnson Formula Number as #35*3597 you are good to go.
You can also use it on clear parts to create a more glass-like effect. It goes by a multitude of different names and labels, and seems to change regularly, so to find out what it is called in your country and what it looks like at the moment, go along to this handy-dandy guide to Future over at Swanny's Models and bookmark the page.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you airbrush Pledge, you MUST wear a suitable respirator mask. It contains many nasty chemicals. There is an old story that many years ago a modelmaker approached Johnson's and told them that modellers were a prime market for the product as a gloss varnish. They were surprised as they had no idea it was popular in this area. Discussions were apparently had about the possibility of bringing Pledge/Future/Klear to market as a separate modelmaking-specific product - until Johnson's realised that modellers were airbrushing it - at which point the idea was shelved as they could foresee lawsuits piling up at the door. True story, brah.
What is "gunk washing"?
Gunk Washing is a term I coined (because I can't recall what it is actually called) for a technique that will be very familiar to anyone that makes models, props and set pieces for the film and TV industry. Quite simply, you take a model or model piece, totally cover it in neat, unthinned oil paint, and then gently rub the oil paint right back off again with a soft, lint-free cloth or towel (most modellers use an old t-shirt) leaving behind paint in the recesses, nooks and crannies. It creates a nice, subtle shadowing effect and also gives a very quick alternative method to painting panel lines and recessed detail. Often you will also tint the piece slightly, so it is a very handy way to add panel lines, shadows and a little bit of a patina all in one go and really make a model pop.
I find Mig's Starship Filth oil paint is a perfect gunk wash colour for most projects, but any colour will do.
A gunk wash needs to be oil paint because of the long drying time. You can't do it with enamels or standard modelling acrylic paints (water or alcohol based) as they dry too quickly and you will just get a mess. Some water-based acrylic paints can be used if you are quick, but you wold need to experiment to find the best ones. If in doubt, stick to oils.
Once a piece has been "gunked" with oils it should be protected and sealed in with a varnish to stop any further weathering re-activating the thick paint, and it it must be left alone for at least five days for the paints to dry properly before this protective varnish layer goes over the top. Wearing gloves during the gunking process is a must - otherwise you will get fingerprints all over the model, and you will get covered in oil paint!
What is this "Starship Filth" you go on about all the time?
Mig 502 Abteilung Starship Filth is one of Mig Production's oil paint range. IIRC (and I could be wrong) the 502 Abteilung oils are aklyd oils - similar to regular artist's oils but much finer, less oily and faster-drying. There fine texture means they are better suited to model making than artist's oils. Starship Filth is a wonderful what I call "universal colour" because it works beautifully with any colour underneath it and can be used to create scorch marks, scoring, blast marks, soot stains, shading, dirt, gunk and is what I use for gunk washes. Dry-brushing Filth is a good alternative to post-shading a model, if you are careful. It can also be used in tandem with 502 Abteilung Engine Grease to create awesome looking heat-staining effects.
You can Get Starship Filth as either a traditional oil paint tube or an Oilbrusher.
Mig 502 Abteilung Starship Filth is one of Mig Production's oil paint range. IIRC (and I could be wrong) the 502 Abteilung oils are aklyd oils - similar to regular artist's oils but much finer, less oily and faster-drying. There fine texture means they are better suited to model making than artist's oils. Starship Filth is a wonderful what I call "universal colour" because it works beautifully with any colour underneath it and can be used to create scorch marks, scoring, blast marks, soot stains, shading, dirt, gunk and is what I use for gunk washes. Dry-brushing Filth is a good alternative to post-shading a model, if you are careful. It can also be used in tandem with 502 Abteilung Engine Grease to create awesome looking heat-staining effects.
You can Get Starship Filth as either a traditional oil paint tube or an Oilbrusher.
ever I'm REALLY not finding any Starship Filth ANYWHERE
If you can't get hold of it, I am led to believe that you can mix a reasonable facsimile of good old Filth using standard artist's oil colours Burnt Sienna and Payne's Grey (although I have never tried it myself). Just make sure to leach out the excess oil from the artist's paints before you use them by mixing your paint on a palette made of porous card or thick paper and leaving it to sit for 15-20 minutes. You'll see the excess oils leaching into the card around the paint.
How do I stick clear parts down? My plastic cement/CA glue fogs the plastic and looks crap?
Simple - don't use regular plastic cements or CA glue (superglue). To attach a clear part such as a canopy or a headlight to a model, use a glue that dries clear and does not affect plastics such as Revell's Canopy Glue, Micro Krystal Klear or even good old fashioned PVA glue, A.K.A Elmer's in the U.S. These glues don't react chemically to the plastic and dry clear, so are not visible once they have set and don;t cause fogging.
However, they also do not have super-strong bonds, so don't worry if a clear piece falls off somewhere down the line with a bit of rough handling.
Buying one of my builds
I will offer completed builds for sale through eBay, or occasionally, directly through this website. These will be listed on the For Sale page of this website. This will be time-limited and once a model is sold it is unlikely I will make another one of that subject, so grab what you can whilst it is available.
Once an item is listed on eBay I will not enter into any discussions about the sale, offers or auction outside of eBay. This is for your security and in line with eBay terms and conditions. However, if you see a model that is not listed for sale and are interested in purchasing it, simply get in touch via the contact form above or send me a message on my Facebook page and we can discuss if I am willing to sell the model.
Models sold directly through this website will be documented thoroughly via email conversation only to keep a permanent record, and in most cases payment will only be accepted by bank transfer.
Prices
Prices for pre-built models are based on what I feel is a fair hourly rate of compensation for the number of hours the build took, with the cost, value and rarity of the kit and materials factored in. My prices are non-negotiable. Do not assume that a simple cheap model kit will carry a low price - the difference between the cost of the kit and the finished model after possibly over a hundred hours of hard work can be significant. Offers will not be accepted - my price is my price. If you are not comfortable with this, imagine your boss telling you that actually, although you work hard, the job is not that important so they want to offer you a pay cut.
Payment
Payment methods will be specified on the eBay auction page and for the majority of sales I will accept payment by PayPal. However, I may request payment by bank transfer only for sales outside of eBay or for pieces with a high value. This is for my safety more than anything else. If a bank transfer is required, no other payment method will be accepted.
For eBay sales, payment will be required in line with eBay's terms and conditions. For sales outside of eBay, I will require fnds to fully clear to my account before shipping.
Shipping
I can ship to most destinations although in some circumstances it is not always possible. I will be able to confirm this when I respond to your enquiry. Pieces are very carefully packed to ensure that the chance of any shipping damage is minimised; however by their nature these pieces can be very delicate and there is always the slim chance that some minor damage may occur during transport no matter how careful we are. Ideally you will have some modelling skill and be able to effect any minor repairs that may be required or know someone that can assist you to make any minor repairs.
Shipping costs will be roughly estimated on the product listing. Shipping is based on size and weight of the packed model, so should the actual shipping come to less than you paid, I will refund the difference back to you.
For larger more delicate pieces it may be advisable to collect the piece directly from me or, if you are in the UK, ask if I can deliver the item to you, In these cases, no shipping charges will be made to you.
Please note: if you cannot collect the piece or I cannot deliver it, very large pieces or dioramas may require specialist art shipping services, for which I will obtain a quote (however this may be extremely expensive).
Cancellation & Returns
It is agreed that direct sales outside of eBay and also "Buy Now" and "Second chance" eBay Purchases are not custom commission builds and therefore the Distance Selling Regulations (2000) apply. If you are not completely happy with your purchase you must notify me in writing by email or via the contact form within 7 days of receipt to obtain clearance to return or refund your item, and you will be refunded in full within 30 days once the returned piece has been received by me. No refund will be issued until the item is received back here. No refunds or returns will be possible after the 7 day period has passed. If a return is agreed the buyer will be responsible for shipping and handling costs and will be expected to return the item complete with all accessories, documentation and companion pieces in the condition it was originally shipped out, and in the original packaging it was shipped in. I may refuse to issue a refund if the item is returned damaged, beyond repair or in a state that means it cannot be sold again to another buyer. This also applies to pieces purchased directly through this website and not through eBay. The purchaser is SOLELY responsible for customs and import charges if the item is shipped outside the UK, and this will not be included in the cost of the model or your shipping charges. Returns or refunds will not be permitted where a buyer refuses such charges and does not take receipt of the purchased model. You must make sure you are aware of and understand such import and tax considerations for your country before you commit to a purchase (these charges are applied by your tax and customs organisation for ANY purchases you make of ANYTHING from outside your country, and are nothing to do with me).
Auction-style items sold on eBay are exempt from the UK Distance Selling Regulations (2000) and so no refunds or returns will be accepted unless stated in the noted policy on the eBay auction page for that item.
Please also refer to eBay terms and conditions.
That's all I can think of right now - if your question has not been answered here, then contact me and I'll see if I can help you :)
If you can't get hold of it, I am led to believe that you can mix a reasonable facsimile of good old Filth using standard artist's oil colours Burnt Sienna and Payne's Grey (although I have never tried it myself). Just make sure to leach out the excess oil from the artist's paints before you use them by mixing your paint on a palette made of porous card or thick paper and leaving it to sit for 15-20 minutes. You'll see the excess oils leaching into the card around the paint.
How do I stick clear parts down? My plastic cement/CA glue fogs the plastic and looks crap?
Simple - don't use regular plastic cements or CA glue (superglue). To attach a clear part such as a canopy or a headlight to a model, use a glue that dries clear and does not affect plastics such as Revell's Canopy Glue, Micro Krystal Klear or even good old fashioned PVA glue, A.K.A Elmer's in the U.S. These glues don't react chemically to the plastic and dry clear, so are not visible once they have set and don;t cause fogging.
However, they also do not have super-strong bonds, so don't worry if a clear piece falls off somewhere down the line with a bit of rough handling.
Buying one of my builds
I will offer completed builds for sale through eBay, or occasionally, directly through this website. These will be listed on the For Sale page of this website. This will be time-limited and once a model is sold it is unlikely I will make another one of that subject, so grab what you can whilst it is available.
Once an item is listed on eBay I will not enter into any discussions about the sale, offers or auction outside of eBay. This is for your security and in line with eBay terms and conditions. However, if you see a model that is not listed for sale and are interested in purchasing it, simply get in touch via the contact form above or send me a message on my Facebook page and we can discuss if I am willing to sell the model.
Models sold directly through this website will be documented thoroughly via email conversation only to keep a permanent record, and in most cases payment will only be accepted by bank transfer.
Prices
Prices for pre-built models are based on what I feel is a fair hourly rate of compensation for the number of hours the build took, with the cost, value and rarity of the kit and materials factored in. My prices are non-negotiable. Do not assume that a simple cheap model kit will carry a low price - the difference between the cost of the kit and the finished model after possibly over a hundred hours of hard work can be significant. Offers will not be accepted - my price is my price. If you are not comfortable with this, imagine your boss telling you that actually, although you work hard, the job is not that important so they want to offer you a pay cut.
Payment
Payment methods will be specified on the eBay auction page and for the majority of sales I will accept payment by PayPal. However, I may request payment by bank transfer only for sales outside of eBay or for pieces with a high value. This is for my safety more than anything else. If a bank transfer is required, no other payment method will be accepted.
For eBay sales, payment will be required in line with eBay's terms and conditions. For sales outside of eBay, I will require fnds to fully clear to my account before shipping.
Shipping
I can ship to most destinations although in some circumstances it is not always possible. I will be able to confirm this when I respond to your enquiry. Pieces are very carefully packed to ensure that the chance of any shipping damage is minimised; however by their nature these pieces can be very delicate and there is always the slim chance that some minor damage may occur during transport no matter how careful we are. Ideally you will have some modelling skill and be able to effect any minor repairs that may be required or know someone that can assist you to make any minor repairs.
Shipping costs will be roughly estimated on the product listing. Shipping is based on size and weight of the packed model, so should the actual shipping come to less than you paid, I will refund the difference back to you.
For larger more delicate pieces it may be advisable to collect the piece directly from me or, if you are in the UK, ask if I can deliver the item to you, In these cases, no shipping charges will be made to you.
Please note: if you cannot collect the piece or I cannot deliver it, very large pieces or dioramas may require specialist art shipping services, for which I will obtain a quote (however this may be extremely expensive).
Cancellation & Returns
It is agreed that direct sales outside of eBay and also "Buy Now" and "Second chance" eBay Purchases are not custom commission builds and therefore the Distance Selling Regulations (2000) apply. If you are not completely happy with your purchase you must notify me in writing by email or via the contact form within 7 days of receipt to obtain clearance to return or refund your item, and you will be refunded in full within 30 days once the returned piece has been received by me. No refund will be issued until the item is received back here. No refunds or returns will be possible after the 7 day period has passed. If a return is agreed the buyer will be responsible for shipping and handling costs and will be expected to return the item complete with all accessories, documentation and companion pieces in the condition it was originally shipped out, and in the original packaging it was shipped in. I may refuse to issue a refund if the item is returned damaged, beyond repair or in a state that means it cannot be sold again to another buyer. This also applies to pieces purchased directly through this website and not through eBay. The purchaser is SOLELY responsible for customs and import charges if the item is shipped outside the UK, and this will not be included in the cost of the model or your shipping charges. Returns or refunds will not be permitted where a buyer refuses such charges and does not take receipt of the purchased model. You must make sure you are aware of and understand such import and tax considerations for your country before you commit to a purchase (these charges are applied by your tax and customs organisation for ANY purchases you make of ANYTHING from outside your country, and are nothing to do with me).
Auction-style items sold on eBay are exempt from the UK Distance Selling Regulations (2000) and so no refunds or returns will be accepted unless stated in the noted policy on the eBay auction page for that item.
Please also refer to eBay terms and conditions.
That's all I can think of right now - if your question has not been answered here, then contact me and I'll see if I can help you :)
